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Miss China

505 min read

It’s autumn and a typical Friday night at Naufsika’s Taverna in Kefalohori, a bustling village beneath the towering Grammos mountains in northwestern Greece. Tonight seven or eight tables are full of diners; some locals, many family members

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Border Business

256 min read

“Passport please,” demands a policeman as he approaches my Jeep. We're at a roadside pullover near Kefalohori, Greece just a stone's throw over the Grammos mountains from Albania. In these parts, I can't remember a time I have NOT been asked to show my papers or open the trunk of my car.

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Strolling in Permet

414 min read

Permet is a bustling town in southeastern Albania bookended between the Vjosa River and the towering Dhembel Mountains. On a Friday or Saturday night—actually any summer night—the shops are open

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Meeting Brandy

317 min read

The rain came down in torrents all night and by morning Mill Run, the small river in front of my cabin, swells its banks full of muddy water, sticks and jetsam. The day opens slowly with coffee, a wander along the creek for me and my dog, Simba,

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Dead End Road

303 min read

Downtown Mill Creek offers a diner/gas station, the ubiquitous Family Dollar Store, an IGA Grocery, Liggett Hardware, the Post Office, a bank and three churches with billboards out front. On the day I arrive into town, one church broadcasts a

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On the Road and Back

350 min read

I am home now back on the island of Skopelos, my base for five months a year. Always, it is good to leave the hotels behind, but alas, the pleasures and freedom of the road—new and old places visited, new friends—too quickly recedes.Thinking back…I

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Mitsos Goes to Jail

174 min read

9/15/19On my last visit to Aliveri, September 2019, I stop by Konstandina and Mitsos’s house. They meet me at the gate with bad news: Mitsos has just been arrested for driving without a diploma, a license. “Ah bad, bad news,” he tells me. He plies

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Where’s the Gamos?

540 min read

All the years I traveled around rural Greece, I searched for stories that described the daily life. Tales of meeting and photographing farmers, shepherds and bakers unfolded. Stories too of bouzouki bar nights and looking for abandoned villages high

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