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Miss China

505 min read

It’s autumn and a typical Friday night at Naufsika’s Taverna in Kefalohori, a bustling village beneath the towering Grammos mountains in northwestern Greece. Tonight seven or eight tables are full of diners; some locals, many family members

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Words of Evangelia Senior

128 min read

Words of Evangelia Senior9/21/19Today Evangelia and I sit in the shade of the olive trees sipping iced coffees. “Next year we go to Karditsa together,” she says. “Snap, snap, you can make many photographs.” A nice idea as her entire extended family,

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On the Road and Back

350 min read

I am home now back on the island of Skopelos, my base for five months a year. Always, it is good to leave the hotels behind, but alas, the pleasures and freedom of the road—new and old places visited, new friends—too quickly recedes.Thinking back…I

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Mitsos Goes to Jail

174 min read

9/15/19On my last visit to Aliveri, September 2019, I stop by Konstandina and Mitsos’s house. They meet me at the gate with bad news: Mitsos has just been arrested for driving without a diploma, a license. “Ah bad, bad news,” he tells me. He plies

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A Great Racket

335 min read

I call Marinos this morning to confirm our meeting at the astinomia, the local police. We agreed that I will sell them my old motorbike for 100 euros. That’s what we tell the police, anyway. In reality, it’s a gift from me to them in exchange for

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Eleftheria Makes Her Debut

600 min read

Young Eleftheria turned 15 this year. A tall serious girl with flowing black hair and almond eyes, she is the oldest daughter of Crazy Mitsos, my Roma friend and first contact with Roma families in Greece. In Skopelos, that first summer in  2018,

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Where’s the Gamos?

540 min read

All the years I traveled around rural Greece, I searched for stories that described the daily life. Tales of meeting and photographing farmers, shepherds and bakers unfolded. Stories too of bouzouki bar nights and looking for abandoned villages high

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So Young

229 min read

I stop by Mitsos and Konstandina’s house in Aliveri to find the front door wide open. No one responds to my call: “Yeia sou! Yeia sou!” Then Konstandina appears ambling across the side lot through the weeds with her skirt tied up, lugging a big bag

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