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Miss China

505 min read

It’s autumn and a typical Friday night at Naufsika’s Taverna in Kefalohori, a bustling village beneath the towering Grammos mountains in northwestern Greece. Tonight seven or eight tables are full of diners; some locals, many family members

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Border Business

256 min read

“Passport please,” demands a policeman as he approaches my Jeep. We're at a roadside pullover near Kefalohori, Greece just a stone's throw over the Grammos mountains from Albania. In these parts, I can't remember a time I have NOT been asked to show my papers or open the trunk of my car.

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Strolling in Permet

414 min read

Permet is a bustling town in southeastern Albania bookended between the Vjosa River and the towering Dhembel Mountains. On a Friday or Saturday night—actually any summer night—the shops are open

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