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A Photograph

455 min read

I’m returning to old haunts today, villages and farmlands I visited several times each summer over fifteen years ago. Today I’m driving the 17 kilometer climb up steep winding roads to mile-high Aetomilitsa, in Epirus, Greece, the mountainous region that edges the Albanian border. It is one of my favorite villages in the municipality of Mastorahoria and I hope to deliver photos, dated 2009, recently discovered in the back of my photo closet.  

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Miss China

505 min read

It’s autumn and a typical Friday night at Naufsika’s Taverna in Kefalohori, a bustling village beneath the towering Grammos mountains in northwestern Greece. Tonight seven or eight tables are full of diners; some locals, many family members

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Border Business

256 min read

“Passport please,” demands a policeman as he approaches my Jeep. We're at a roadside pullover near Kefalohori, Greece just a stone's throw over the Grammos mountains from Albania. In these parts, I can't remember a time I have NOT been asked to show my papers or open the trunk of my car.

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Mitsos Goes to Jail

174 min read

9/15/19On my last visit to Aliveri, September 2019, I stop by Konstandina and Mitsos’s house. They meet me at the gate with bad news: Mitsos has just been arrested for driving without a diploma, a license. “Ah bad, bad news,” he tells me. He plies

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